Samuel and Sons Passementerie

08.20.19

Talking Trim With Lori Weitzner

Talking Trim Designer Lori Weitzner | Inside the Studio

An updated, contemporary interpretation of her first collection for Samuel & Sons thirteen years ago, Encore by Lori Weitzner is comprised of exquisitely sophisticated pleated borders complemented by the reintroduction of her Opaline Cultured Pearl Fringe. The collection brings a new vision to pleating and beading, introducing contemporary colorings and advanced techniques in a multifaceted collection of dimensional designs.

Lori graciously welcomed us into her studio for a tour and behind-the-scenes look at the development of Encore. We’ve captured moments from the process—her experiments in color and construction—that led to the final production of eight new designs while hearing her thoughts on designing trim, color trends and what inspired the new collection.

Talking Trim: A Q&A With Lori Weitzner

What is your design process like?

LW: Our process is multi-faceted– we draw, we paint, we play, we sew, we bead — we do all kinds of things. Then we go to the mills and we develop with them our ideas and then we tweak and work some more. Sometimes our ideas our realized as we had hoped, and sometimes we have to go back to the drawing board. And sometimes, with the collaborative help of our artisans, the final product is even better than we had hoped!

 

What is the story behind Encore?

LW: Encore is a very special collection to me because the very first collection that I did 13 years ago, Repertoire, was also all about pleating. I love the technique, but I also love the dimension it gives to what is normally a 2D product. With pleating, it becomes 3D and it becomes alive; as light hits it from different angles in a space it looks really beautiful. What I wanted to do with Encore was push the envelope on what pleating could be.

 

How is designing trim different from designing fabric?

LW: One of the first things I learned designing trim is that unlike fabric, the more colors you have within it, the more chance it has of success because it can live with other things so easily. The other thing I love about designing trim, is that it is what I like to call “jewelry for the home”. The finishing detail that makes something that might otherwise be ordinary-extraordinary– just by the addition of that special detail. This allows us so many options.

 

What is your favorite style in this collection?

LW: Virtuoso. It actually utilizes four different processes! It is a laser cut pattern that is pleated, digitally printed, and then sewn onto a tape. What I love about it is that it combines old and new techniques alike —a very contemporary technique of  laser cutting combined with the ancient technique of sewing and applique; Old and new together to create such a beautiful pattern.

 

What else do you love about how the collection turned out?

LW: I love the fact that we can do something very classic and silk like, and then we can do something in a dry wool that is very contemporary and chic. Both pleated, but both completely different from each other. They can offer our clients many variations to work from.

 

What colors have you seen trending lately?

LW: Nudes and blush tones are the new neutrals. Grays are warming up. Everything is warming up. More “colorful” neutrals, every kind of green. And of course pink and purple are back but they are now more “sassy” than “sweet”.

 

 

“Rooted in textiles, I am always searching for and inspired by dimension and texture. The Encore collection celebrates that through pleat, origami, color play, embroidery, and beading. The inspiring possibilities trim provides are thrilling and endless.” Lori Weitzner

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Encore collection by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

 

Inside the design studio during the development of the Encore collection by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Virtuoso Applique Border by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

Virtuoso Applique Border

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Merengue Pleated Metallic Border by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

Merengue Pleated Metallic Border

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Encore collection by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Merengue Pleated Metallic Border by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

Merengue Pleated Metallic Border

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Merengue Pleated Metallic Border by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

Merengue Pleated Metallic Border

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Encore collection by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

 

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Minuet Pleated Border by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

Minuet Pleated Border

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Minuet Pleated Border by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

Minuet Pleated Border

 

Behind-the-scenes during the development of the Sashay Applique Border by Lori Weitzner for Samuel & Sons.

Sashay Applique Border

Explore the new Encore collection or Pin it for later.

 

 

 

04.12.18

Creating Couture

When first presented with a new collection, one is often left intrigued by the journey that led to its creation. Our partner, friend and renowned designer Lori Weitzner has graciously offered an intimate look inside her studio and the process of creating Couture.

New for Spring 2018, the design of Couture was a labor of love inspired by the work of contemporary fashion icons. Taking cues from advanced construction techniques, innovative approaches to pleating, embroidery and coloration took shape.

Enjoy this behind-the-scenes look—from watercolors to color trials—at the development of  Couture cords, tapes, brush fringes, tassel fringes and holdbacks.

Inside the Studio of Lori Weitzner

Carolina Ombré Holdbacks

 

Lori Weitzner Studio Scenes - Creating Couture

Experimentation with pleating alongside her completed design, the Isabel Pleated Border seen here in Hibiscus.

 

Watercolor - Lori Weitzner's Studio

Watercolors and yarn reelings; Carolina Ombré Tassel Fringe in the making.

 

Lori Weitzner Studio - Creating Couture

Considering colorways and the construction of dimensional “ruffles” for the Isabel Pleated Border.

Creating Couture - Inside the design studio of Lori Weitzner

Exploring subtle shifts in color; the Carolina Ombré Brush Fringe in Rosewater.

 

 

Shop the Couture collection online or at trade showroom near you.

 

Download your copy of the Couture brochure.

Couture by Lori Weitzner

01.13.18

Spring Collections Debut at Paris Déco Off

New collections for Spring 2018 are set to debut at Paris Déco Off. Our plans for this five-day celebration include a spectacular display of trimmings inside our pop-up showroom at 26 Rue Bonaparte. Cirque, Hair on Hide and Matelassé as well as Couture, a new collection by Lori Weitzner, will be shown January 18 – 22.

Join us for special events on Thursday, January 18th and Saturday, January 20th. See below for details and RSVP to rsvp@samuelandsons.com

 

Paris Deco Off_ Samuel and Sons

03.10.16

LA Showroom Grand Opening

In advance of West Week 2016, we’re celebrating the official grand opening of our LA showroom at the Pacific Design Center with two very special guests. Joining us for an evening of cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and design are Clinton Smith, Editor in Chief of Veranda Magazine, and designer Lori Weitzner.

Event details can be found below. Kindly let us know if you are able to attend. RSVP to elle@spreadpr.net by March 15.

LA Showroom Grand Opening

 

 

If you can’t join us for the event, see this previous post for a glimpse of Spring 2016 collections on display in our LA showroom.

Samuel and Sons Passementerie